ARTICLE PATRIK SANDBERG

PHOTOGRAPHY REMI LAMANDE

CREDITS ARTICLE CONTENTS

BON V VANTS: WOMEN OF INFLUENCE

IAN CURTIS OR BUST

RISE UP: KOMAKINO

EXTRA CREDITS

STYLIST NIKLAS BILDSTEIN ZAAR
MAKEUP KARIN WESTERLUND
HAIR BENEDICTE CAZAU-BEYRET
MODEL PATRYK @ THE RIGHT STUFF MANAGEMENT PHOTOGRAPHER'S ASSISTANTS VANESSA MUNIER AND ALEXANDRE HERTOGHE
STYLIST'S ASSISTANTS SACHA QUINTIN AND MARGAUX SIREJACOB
SPECIAL THANKS KIRA BUNSE, LE RED STUDIO

KOMAKINODESIGN.COM

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RISE UP: KOMAKINO

PHOTOGRAPHY REMI LAMANDE
TEXT PATRIK SANDBERG

THE LONDON-BASED LABEL CHANNELS UNDERGROUND MILITARISM FOR A LOOK THAT IS NOTHING SHORT OF REVOLUTIONARY. WE SPOKE TO DESIGNER FEDERICO CAPALBO ABOUT THE STATS BEHIND THE SEAMS

VMAN You’re based in London, your clothes are produced in Italy, and you show in Paris. Explain this trinity.
KOMAKINO Each Country offers us something different and they all complement each other. Menswear in Paris is like the pinnacle of the schedule, where vision and execution are beautifully combined. London is home and we love the energy of the city. We enjoy combining the influences this city gives us with the possibilities of Italian manufacturing. We believe the vision of a label should preserve its identity yet be able to embrace a certain universality (as much as it might sound wanky).

What was your jumping off point with your Fall collection?
We believe in building up on our own vocabulary, an identity. This season we pressed play on a different cassette.

There is an industrial rave aesthetic that runs through your work, especially in Fall collections. What inspires your silhouettes?
Yes, the rave aesthetic definitely inspired our silhouette this season. It is the movement we grew up around in our teenage years—even though we weren't directly involved with it, we still felt its influence and energy.

Where did the imagery for the graphics come from?
It came from industrial cassettes and fanzines from the '80s—in particular the London-based Broken Flag record label and the power-electronic acts that were active in that period.

Explain the long list of zines that line the floors in the lookbook. How were these selected and what do they signify?
We covered the entire floor of the gallery where we held the presentation. They came from our collection—we are very much into industrial music and the spirit that it is synonymous with - it is a constant in our work. We also like the idea of the fanzine in itself, there is nothing more pure and somehow romantic as the passion of an underground fan.

What sort of music have you been listening to while designing? Does it play a factor?
Loads of bands from the Broken Flag catalog and '90s techno. Music is a constant while we are working and in our life in general.

What’s the best film you’ve seen recently? 
Decoder.

Best live show you’ve seen?
Both Swans and Fushitsusha in London are up there. Both very powerful shows.

Best art exhibition you’ve been to lately?
Death: A Self Portrait at the Wellcome Collection.

What is coming next?
We would really like to set up an installation, possibly in the States, involving other media and to collaborate with visual artists to expand our universe.

For our favorite looks from the Fall/Winter 13 lookbook, click above. 
 
To shop this season's Komakino, head to Opening Ceremony!

EXTRA CREDITS

STYLIST NIKLAS BILDSTEIN ZAAR
MAKEUP KARIN WESTERLUND
HAIR BENEDICTE CAZAU-BEYRET
MODEL PATRYK @ THE RIGHT STUFF MANAGEMENT PHOTOGRAPHER'S ASSISTANTS VANESSA MUNIER AND ALEXANDRE HERTOGHE
STYLIST'S ASSISTANTS SACHA QUINTIN AND MARGAUX SIREJACOB
SPECIAL THANKS KIRA BUNSE, LE RED STUDIO

KOMAKINODESIGN.COM

MORE TO LOVE

SHOP ALL WEEKEND FRONT ROW: MILAN FASHION WEEK LOOK BACK IN ANGER BACKSTAGE: COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA
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