PHOTOGRAPHY ULYSSE FRECHELIN
FOR THE DAZZLING PIECES IN HER NEW ARCHI DIOR FINE JEWELRY COLLECTION, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VICTOIRE DE CASTELLANE LOOKED TO THE HOUSE'S MOST SCULPTURAL ARCHIVAL DRESSES—INCLUDING THE FAMOUS BAR DRESS—FOR INSPIRATION. DELVE INTO HER DREAMWORLD WITH A CHIC SELECTION OF THE GORGEOUS GEMS
V Congratulations on such an exquisite collection. Was the iconic New Look piece the starting point for you?
Victoire de Castellane The collection is inspired by various iconic lines, such as Corolle, Verticale, Zig-Zag, Ailée, and Trompe-l’oeil, or by gowns, such as Dior’s iconic New Look “Bar” suit. Dressmaking is a matter of construction. Christian Dior dreamed of being an architect, and on becoming a couturier he always designed his dresses as if they were strictly structured fabric edifices. In jewelry, too, each piece is a construction, a precious edifice assembled stone by stone. It is precisely this concept of architectural design which has inspired me. Every piece in the Archi Dior Collection has borrowed the name of an iconic line or gown and translates the very distinctive movements of the material into the language of high jewelry.
V How do the jewelry and the dresses relate to each other in terms of the design? Were you envisioning how the women of the era would look wearing these pieces?
VC I wanted to create each piece just like the dresses Christian Dior designed, with an architect’s eye, as if the jewels were sculpted, flounced, pleated, belted, or draped fabrics.
V Approximately how long does it take to finish each piece?
VC The collection is composed of 44 unique pieces, and it took from 18 to 24 months to finish each piece. To give you an example, it took 2,500 hours to accomplish the necklace “Corolle,” which had to be cut into 160 sections in order to permit the setting of over 300 individually resized diamond baguettes. Five hundred sixty hours were needed to successfully complete the setting of the 4,500 stones of the bracelet “Bar.”
PRODUCTION MATHILDE WACOGNE (ARTLIST PARIS)
RETOUCHING SEBASTIEN LACROIX
LOCATION PIN-UP STUDIO, PARIS