ARTICLE NATASHA STAGG
The Resort season grows ever more important to market sales, and every year we notice more brands creating a casual, summery line for the winter season. As for trends, it’s most interesting to note the trend of resort itself: almost everyone has jumped on the cruise ship-shaped bandwagon to create a sort of between-seasons collection. Sometimes it's a packable, beachy version of the last and sometimes it's another vibe altogether, as an introduction to the next. In this way, the resort trends of note may be an even earlier foreshadowing of what we’ll see on 2015’s stylish streets than the bigger Spring/Summer shows, set for this Fall.
The presence of the nineties is almost overwhelming, as each anti-fashion movement was mocked-up and hardly modified: there’s the nineties-movie version of the seventies, which mixes disco pantsuits with hippie daisy patches and mod shifts and buckles, and then there’s a high-end presentation of grunge: the layering, the plaid, and the sneakers with babydoll dresses. And let’s not forget the ravers—or at least the neon colors and symbolism associated with that particular tribe, now translated into Emoji-like prints.
The shape that seemed most inspirational from the Fall/Winter 2014 shows was (surprise) Raf Simons’s Dior, which followed a storyline it started its first Fall Couture in 2012. This Dior has morphed from a transparent and decadent homage to Christian Dior’s original designs to a style of suiting that’s just about everywhere now: It’s a little awkward, and it involves asymmetry, but more specifically, it plays with exposure. Think slitted skirts that offer not a bare leg, but more pleats beneath the surface. The pleat itself and all of its abilities was a big sell this season, falling over bodices, creeping out of crevices, and getting cinched on only one side of the body: the powersuit/toga. In general, resort collections tend to veer on the conservative side, in the same way pre-Fall does for most brands. A few, though, take the title more literally, making bathing suits and cover-ups casual enough for the boat. Pantsuits, especially in bright, Miami Beach party-flyer tones, are everywhere, as are polka dots and similarly clownish motifs, from head to toe. “Art,” as in visible brush strokes in prints on cocktail dresses, tie-dye, and paisley prints came up a lot too—ideal for Art Basel in December.
A few other key pieces, fabrics, and textures showed up enough for us to take note, too—see the slideshow above for our guesses as to what will be coming up next on the runways in full force.