DAVID NEVILLE AND MARCUS WAINWRIGHT STAGE THEIR FALL 2014 MEN'S SHOW OFF THE FASHION CALENDAR GRID, A CHOICE AS SENSIBLE AS THEIR NO-NONSENSE, BACK TO BASICS COLLECTION
As rumors contnue to swirl of a forthcoming New York Men's Week in July, Rag & Bone has joined brands like Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors by showing its Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear off the traditional catwalk grid—although, in fairness, all that other madness is less than a week away.
Last night, designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville staged a cocktail party in the center of a perimeter runway on West 22nd Street, where fresh-faced models made a procession in front of projected images and videos of themselves in the looks they were wearing—a similar concept to the one successfully executed by young menswear brand Telfar at its show in September. But nevermind the bells and whistles: concept is not necessarily the keyword when it comes to the hip and wearable staples that have made Rag & Bone one of New York's greatest men's brands.
The codes of the label came strongly reinforced: traditional English workwear, the street, and the military were each represented in turn. Mack jackets became trenches, sweaters came with aviation patches, and embroidery throughout gave a '50s throwback edge, elevating blue-collar staples like the bowling shirt to a new form of luxury streetwear.
Women's looks that came interspersed with that of the boys, I learned, were menswear tailored to a woman's shape, not necessarily a preview of what's to come in February.
In executing such proportion play without going too far, Wainwright and Neville will have plenty to keep their loyal fanbase happy come Fall, and hopefully their show can serve as an indicator for men's shows to come as well, should New York follow the trajectory of London and amp up the menswear game: simply executed with zero bullshit and a cocktail on the side.
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IMAGES COURTESY RAG & BONE