ARCO, the International Contemporary Art Fair in Madrid, celebrated its 29th installment last month with guest of honor: the city of Los Angeles. Enter Javier Peres from Peres Projects (whose freebie "Young Men At Play" posters by Dean Sameshima wreaked utter havoc) and Wendy Yao (ARCO panelist and head honcho behind the infamous L.A. bookshop Ooga Booga). Oranges anyone? Fallen Fruit, an American eco-art collective, invited viewers to sample the goods at El Matadero, a great new exhibition space that could only be rivaled by cliche flamenco posters, the picturesque must-see coffee house La Mallorquina, or an impressive library at the ultra-cool gallery, Ivory Press.

ARCO highlights included neon works galore, as well as photographs by Rafel G. Bianchi, Alberto Garcia Alix, Jack Pierson, Wim Wenders, Martin Parr, and Miles Aldridge (his stellar homage to Kristen McMenamy was awe-inspiring to say the least). A fantastic velvet-and-bronze sculpture by Dutch artist Madeleine Berkhemer had fans chanting for less jamon and more Haribo (because there is nothing quite like a continuous sugar hit when browsing the aisles of an art fair). Harland Miller oil paintings provoked praise, as did split-composition works by João Penalva. And who could forget the superb silhouettes and shapes on show across town at Studio Franchise courtesy of graphic design guru, Ryan McGinness?

< PREVIOUS   NEXT >

0 COMMENTS

SEND TO A FRIEND

Yes, we know, Katherine Bigelow, likely the Best Director. Check. And of course, Mo’Nique will do runways as Best Supporting Actress. Double check. But what about predicting that often overlooked category which this year poses quite a dead heat, while serving up wall-to-wall, powerhouse talent?

That’s right it’s time to vote your Oscar prediction for Best Costume Design, or your favorite ‘Onscreen Runway’, if you want to really break it down.

Delivering fantasy and reality in the past, present and future while tacking all sorts of artistic challenges, it’s a critical element in what gives a film its visual and narrative truth.

This year’s nominees: Colleen Atwood (Nine); Catherine Leterrier (Coco Before Chanel); Janet Patterson (Bright Star); Sandy Powell (The Young Victoria); Monique Prudhomme (The Imaginarium of Dr. Parnassus). L.A. Collins

Click here for a slideshow.

< PREVIOUS   NEXT >

0 COMMENTS

SEND TO A FRIEND

Mario Sorrenti turns up the volume to capture the grittiest glam-rock looks of the season.

< PREVIOUS   NEXT >

0 COMMENTS

SEND TO A FRIEND

Stephen Courter isn’t your standard film critic, so it goes without saying that his cinematic sounding board, AnAisleSeat.com, should have a style all its own. The recently launched blog from the publicist/business partner for rising womenswear label Ohne Titel isn’t a thumbs up, thumbs down catchall of current titles but a thoughtfully selective guide to “what to see at the movies.” The result is a slew of witty, intelligent, and unpretentious write-ups (complete with fun-fact style footnotes) of indie, art house, documentary, and even the occasional big-budget blockbuster movies—whatever makes it past the author’s self-described “discriminating” taste. “The concept is film recommendations from a cinephile with a downtown perspective,” says Courter, who took inspiration for AnAisleSeat from the “bitchy New Yorker wit” of Quentin Crisp's movie reviews in the '80s-era gay-issues magazine Christopher Street. Given the growing number of fans eager to heed Courter’s advice, it’s a concept well worth reviving. Martha Glass

www.anaisleseat.com

< PREVIOUS   NEXT >

0 COMMENTS

SEND TO A FRIEND

Marni’s Fall collection was characteristically bold and colorful, filled with large graphic prints (some of them paintings by Gary Hume) and a palette of dusty pink, ochre, and brick red. The Marni customer is a rather quirky, creative woman; and Consuelo Castiglione has given her structured silhouettes to play around with next season, such as sharp Bermuda shorts with dramatic peplum shapes and sculptural dresses with brocade panels. Given the brand’s heritage, there were also some standout furs, such as a red goat hair capelet and cleverly printed plush vests.

For his womenswear debut for Salvatore Ferragamo, Massimiliano Giornetti presented a ’70s-inflected collection, filled with cool, covetous pieces that still kept in line with the brand’s sense of sophistication. Giornetti has been Ferragamo’s menswear designer since 2000, and, here, he nicely translated his use of traditional patterns (chevron, check, houndstooth) and sharp tailoring into something easy and feminine. Among the standouts: a suede jumpsuit; a long, lurex shirt dress; and a leather-edged camel cape worn with leather shorts—not to mention the series of suede, strappy bags that looked familiar, but felt fresh.

Before a crowd that included Courtney Love and Lindsay Lohan, Roberto Cavalli sent out a lineup of rich gypsy looks: coats and jackets cut from upholstery-like fabrics, slouchy velvet and metallic trousers, fur-tipped scarves wrapped around, and leopard-print bags slung across the body. While there were a lot of beautiful pieces, it was a busy collection—heavily textured and layered high. But, then, such overt decadence has become Cavalli’s way.

Tradition and craftsmanship were at the heart of Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall show, which began with a video of the designers at work in their atelier, and closed with an army of models, dressed in black jackets and little else, marching out to the Moulin Rouge soundtrack. In between, the two brought out all of Dolce & Gabbana’s hallmarks: black lace, Sicilian florals, corsetry tailoring, and, of course, lots of leopard. Polka-dots, rich velvets, and gold coin embellishment were pleasing additions to the repertoire. The closing video of the seamstresses, who had achieved their vision, was a touching tribute, and it left few dry eyes in the audience.

Along with the help of Christopher Kane, Donatella Versace has successfully revived the Versus brand. Their second season of ready-to-wear was a young, fun, sexy romp through the Versace archive (think Gianni-era bondage straps), updated with pleated leather minis, cool little motorcycle jackets, and fantastic velvet shoes.

Slideshows:
Salvatore Ferragamo
Roberto Cavalli
Dolce & Gabbana
Versus

Photography Paolo Simi

V editors Karin Nelson and Catherine Newell-Hanson tweet live from the Fall 2010 Milan shows! twitter.com/vmagazine

< PREVIOUS   NEXT >

1 COMMENTS

SEND TO A FRIEND

In the next issue, Mario Testino presents an ode to the over-the-top personal style of Mexican film star María Félix—she of the wide-brimmed hats and golf ball–sized diamonds. Supermodel Daria Werbowy assumes of the role of the smoldering fashion icon in a 10-page story styled by Sarajane Hoare.

Photography Mario Testino

V64 is on newsstands everywhere March 5, 2010.

< PREVIOUS   NEXT >

2 COMMENTS

SEND TO A FRIEND